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The Weekend Neos Kosmos : 24 September 2016
DIGITAL.NEOSKOSMOS.COM THE WEEKEND NEOS KOSMOS | SATURDAY 24 SEPTEMBER 2016 17 FASHION civilisation and doing it in a way that I feel is very genuine to me − not to shy away from print, not to shy away from graphics, nor from silhouettes I've done before. I wanted to keep it very true to what it is." The first looks to walk down the catwalk were tunics and light, almost flapper-style dresses in maroon, blue, yellow and white hues with a hint of red, featuring classic medallion-style decorations emblazoned on the tops and upper parts of the dresses. Sequins were also present, spicing up tailored jackets and flare pants, while lace was keeping chain-mail frills together. Peplum waists and full length skirts followed. "So there's an infusion of very optic, kinetic, psychedelic ways of distorting and warping the Minoan deities, priests and all the females of Minoan times," Katrantzou explained. "There are a lot of images that you find on artefacts. But I was almost trying to warp them in a way that creates a different sense of perspective. So it's very graphic." This collection is not only a return to her signature full-print outfits but a return, an endorsement, of her cultural roots. Greek vase scenes, architectural motifs, pigeons carrying olive branches, women's faces, geometric period waves and meanders create an ode to the ancient Hellenic civilisation with a neo-pop twist. Even though the designs are very light and bursting with information, the overall idea feels quite simple and wearable. "There are elements of texture and almost warrior-like pieces that are made out of linked Perspex," the designer continues. "It is in the shape of an optic flower that is then engraved with the shape that you find within the pottery. Then we used chain mail and bonded it with lace and overprinted it, so it looks almost like broken fresco." Down to the last detail, everything on the runway was calculated to perfection. Mary Katrantzou had a different pair of custommade heels by Gianvito Rossi to complement each look, but the most loved items of the collection were the clutches. The designer created alphabet bags in the 3D shapes of all 26 letters of the English alphabet, elevating her typographical artistic expression. The colourful patterns wrapped around the historical prints, creating a futuristic pathway to the past through an endless game of antithesis. Master of her trade, Katrantzou always nails it when it comes to harmonising opposite aesthetics. It was all Greece − I was looking at the Minoan civilisation and doing it in a way that I feel is very genuine to me − not to shy away from print, not to shy away from graphics, nor from silhouettes I’ve done before. I wanted to keep it very true to what it is.
17 September 2016
1 October 2016